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Pureblue or Ryeblue- Maintenance Information WATERING NEW SOD- WATERING ESTABLISHED SOD- |
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In addition, be sure to watch for a blue-grey tint and limp areas of your lawn. This is not a fungus. It is caused by dehydration and is an indication that immediate watering is needed. This will usually occur on tops of mounds, or areas where sprinkler coverage is not adequate. (It is acceptable to water in full sun, it will not burn the blades.) MOWING- FERTILIZATION- INSECTS AND DISEASES- To check for lack of water use a screwdriver or knife to probe the brown areas of your lawn as well as the healthy green areas. If the brown area is more difficult to penetrate then a lack of water is likely This is usually the result of poor sprinkler spacing or sprinkler malfunction. Saturate the area with a hose as soon as possible and continue to provide supplemental water until the sprinklers are repaired. Excess water can cause turf to die by suffocating the plants roots or rotting its crown. This generally occurs in low spots or shady areas. Check for muddy soil, algae crusts, or slimy rotting grass. To correct problems in the shade reduce irrigation time to that area or replace the sprinklers with lower volume heads. Low spots must either be raised or drained. Brown spots caused by a burn will result from pet urine (both male and female), over fertilization, gasoline spills, etc. Burn spots are distinguished from other types of damage by their "total kill" straw-yellow color. Dog urine burn spots that are over a week old will be surrounded by a dark green taller growing perimeter. If a burned area is thoroughly flushed with water in the early stage of damage some recovery may occur. Otherwise reseeding or sodding will be necessary. Diseases are almost always related to heat and moisture. The most susceptible months of the year are July, August, and September. High humidity creates an ideal disease environment. However, poor irrigation practices can also promote disease development. The longer moisture stays in the turf foliage the greater the disease risk. Therefore, do not water at night, (between 4 pm and 4 am) since the lawn will stay wet until morning It is best to irrigate between 6 am and 8 am. Weather permitting, do not water established sod everyday. Also, reduce fertilization in the summer. When brown spots first appear observe them from one day to the next, if more develop you probably have an active fungus. During periods of high humidity small six inch diameter spots may multiply, overlapping to become a large area. The grass may be collapsed to a point of lying matted flat and rotting. This is symptomatic of the fungus pythium. Reduce the frequency of watering so that the diseased areas will dry out. Also, make sure that when water is reapplied it is between 6 am and 8 am. Lightly rake up collapsed matted areas to air out in order to prevent recovering shoots from suffocating. Use a broad spectrum fungicide such as Daconil or Fore as recommended by your nurseryman. Always apply the fungicides according to label directions. Another option is to call a lawn care service. Spraying will usually stop the disease from spreading Be patient with areas that have been damaged, often a high percentage of recovery will occur. If reseeding or sodding is required wait until the cooler times of the year. A disease not previously discussed, but common to these varieties, is rust. Its symptoms are as the name implies, an orange brown spotty powder on the grass blades. It will often be apparent on your shoes or mower. It is usually related to lack of fertilizer. When it is detected, increase fertilization and make sure your watering schedule is correct. Generally the disease can be outgrown. Insect problems in these varieties will cause multiple brown spots which are difficult to distinguish from diseases. The spots are usually about 6 inches in diameter and multiply over several days, often growing together. If small moths are observed, especially at night, their larvae are probably the culprits. Spray with a pesticide such as Spectracide or as recommended by your nurseryman. Whether treating with a fungicide or pesticide always follow label directions. Spraying after irrigation will allow chemicals to act for the longest possible period before they are washed away with the next watering. Repeat spraying after ten days to fully eradicate the problem. |
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